Fabrics Explained

A Simple Guide to Buying Fabric Online

Buying fabric online can feel confusing – especially if you’re new to sewing or you’re used to feeling the fabric in a shop before you decide.

This page is here to keep things simple and honest. We’ll explain:

  • What fabric weight (gsm) actually means
  • What terms like needlecord, dobby, jacquard, denim, fleece mean in plain English
  • How corduroy wales work (those little ridges!)
  • What you might want to make with each type of fabric

Every fabric we sell on Rich Fabrics links back to this page, and most of our live-sale fabrics also have a video clip so you can see them moving in real life.

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How We Sell Fabric

3 metre pieces (with continuous length if you order more)

Most of our fabrics are sold in 3 metre pieces. That’s enough for:

  • A dress
  • Trousers or dungarees
  • Skirts + a top
  • Several children’s garments

If you order more than one 3 metre piece of the same fabric, we’ll send it as one continuous length where possible, cut straight from the roll (unless the listing clearly says they are pre-cut).

UK-only, tracked postage

We currently post within the UK only, usually via Royal Mail Tracked 24 or 48. Postage is calculated by weight, which is why we show gsm and give each 3 metre piece a clear weight on the website.

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Fabric Weight (GSM) Explained

What is gsm?

We show fabric weight in gsm – grams per square metre. You don’t need to do any maths. Just think of gsm as:

How thick or thin the fabric feels in your hand.

On each product page, we’ll tell you:

  • The gsm
  • Which band it sits in (light, medium, heavy, etc.)
  • What it feels similar to (e.g. “like a light denim” or “like a standard shirt fabric”)
  • Some project ideas it’s suitable for

We also try to include a live-sale video clip on many fabric listings so you can see the drape and thickness in real life before you decide.

  • Very light (70–110gsm)

    Very floaty, delicate, airy.

    Sheer tops, overlays, scarves, layering.

  • Light (110–150gsm)

    Light and soft, like a standard cotton shirt.

    Shirts, blouses, lighter dresses, kids’ clothes

  • Medium (150–230gsm)

    A good “all-round” dressmaking weight.

    Dresses, skirts, shirts, pyjamas, loose trousers

  • Medium-Heavy (230–280gsm)

    Sturdier and more structured, holds its shape.

    Good for: dungarees, pinafores, lighter denim projects, bags, jackets.

  • Heavy (280gsm and up)

    Thick and robust – a true “workwear” feel.

    Good for: jeans, coats, strong bags, upholstery.

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Corduroy & Wales Per Inch (Those Little Ridges!)

What are “wales”?

Corduroy has little ridges running down the length of the fabric. Those ridges are called wales.

When we say “14 wales per inch” or “24 wales per inch”, we’re telling you how big or small those ribs are:

  • Fewer wales per inchbigger, chunkier ribs (often called jumbo cord)
  • More wales per inchfiner, smaller ribs, sometimes called needlecord or feather cord

Rough guide:

  • 4–8 wales per inch – big chunky cord, very textured.
  • 8–12 wales per inch – standard dressmaking cord.
  • 14–18 wales per inch – fine needlecord; softer, more “suited” look.
  • 20+ wales per inch – very fine, often called feather cord; texture is subtle.

In our listings, we always give the wale count, so you know whether you’re buying:

  • A chunky, cosy cord for jackets and dungarees
  • Or a fine needlecord that’s softer and more drapey for dresses and shirts

Look for the line that says “Approx. 14 wales per inch” or similar in our cord listings for a quick feel for how fine or chunky it is.

Fabrics Explained - A Plain Guide

When buying fabric online it can be hard to picture what fabric actually feels like.

Collapsible content

Cotton Fabrics

Cotton is one of the most popular and versatile fabrics used in sewing. It’s breathable, comfortable to wear and relatively easy to sew, which is why many beginners start with cotton fabrics.

Cotton fabrics come in many different textures and weights depending on how they are woven.

Common cotton fabrics we sell

• Cotton poplin

• Cotton dobby

• Cotton honeycomb

• Cotton drill

• Calico

Typical weight range

Light to medium (around 110–250gsm depending on the weave)

What cotton fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Shirts and blouses

• Children's clothing

• Pyjamas

• Skirts

• Crafts and quilting

• Lightweight curtains

Helpful things to know before buying

• Cotton is breathable and comfortable to wear.

• Most cotton fabrics are easy to cut and sew.

• Some cotton fabrics may shrink slightly when washed, so pre-washing is often recommended.

• Lighter cottons drape well, heavier cottons hold more structure.

Beginner tip

Cotton fabrics are usually one of the easiest fabrics to sew, which makes them ideal if you're learning.

Polycotton

Polycotton is a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. It combines the softness and breathability of cotton with the durability and wrinkle-resistance of polyester.

Because of this blend, polycotton fabrics are often very practical and easy to care for.

Typical weight range

Lightweight (around 90–130gsm)

What polycotton is good for

• Crafts and quilting

• Children's clothing

• Cushion covers

• Lightweight dresses and shirts

• Bags and accessories

Helpful things to know before buying

• Polycotton usually holds its shape well.

• It tends to crease less than pure cotton.

• It’s often slightly firmer than very soft cotton fabrics.

• It’s generally very easy to sew.

Beginner tip

Polycotton is popular for beginners because it’s stable and predictable when sewing.

Viscose

Viscose is a lightweight dress fabric known for its soft feel and beautiful drape. It’s made from natural plant cellulose (usually wood pulp) that has been processed into fibres and spun into fabric.

Because of this, viscose is often described as feeling like a blend between cotton and silk — soft, breathable and flowing.

Viscose fabrics are very popular in dressmaking because they move beautifully and feel comfortable to wear.

Typical Weight Range

Most viscose dress fabrics fall into the lightweight category (around 110–150gsm), although heavier versions do exist.

Lightweight viscose fabrics are commonly used for garments that are designed to drape and move.

What Viscose Fabrics Are Good For

• Dresses

• Blouses

• Skirts

• Lightweight trousers

• Summer clothing

• Floaty tops

Because viscose has a natural drape, it’s ideal for garments where you want movement rather than stiffness.

What Viscose Feels Like

Viscose fabrics are typically:

• Soft and smooth

• Lightweight and breathable

• Fluid with a flowing drape

• Comfortable against the skin

Many people describe viscose as having a feel similar to soft cotton but with more movement.

Helpful Things To Know Before Buying

Viscose behaves differently from many cotton fabrics, so there are a few things worth knowing:

• Viscose drapes beautifully but can feel slightly slippery when cutting and sewing.

• Lightweight viscose fabrics can move around more on the sewing table than stiffer fabrics.

• Because of the drape, viscose is usually better for flowing garments than structured garments.

• Viscose can shrink slightly if washed hot, so gentle washing is usually recommended.

Beginner Tip

Viscose isn’t difficult to sew, but because it’s soft and fluid it can take a little more care when cutting and handling compared to very stable fabrics like cotton.

Using sharp scissors and taking your time when cutting usually makes the process much easier.

How Viscose Compares To Cotton

Viscose and cotton are both popular fabrics for dressmaking, but they behave quite differently when sewn and worn.

Cotton fabrics tend to be more structured and stable. They hold their shape well and are usually easier to cut and sew, which is why they’re often recommended for beginners.

Viscose fabrics, on the other hand, are known for their soft drape and fluid movement. They flow and move with the body rather than holding a rigid shape.

Because of this difference, the same garment pattern can look very different depending on whether it’s made from cotton or viscose.

Cotton tends to be:

• More structured

• Easier to cut and sew

• Slightly firmer in handle

• Good for garments that need shape or structure

Viscose tends to be:

• Softer and more fluid

• More drapey and flowing

• Slightly more slippery to handle when sewing

• Ideal for garments designed to move

Both fabrics are breathable and comfortable to wear, but viscose is usually chosen when a softer, more elegant drape is desired.

When To Choose Viscose Instead Of Cotton

Viscose is often the better choice when you want garments that move and drape naturally.

It works particularly well for:

• Floaty dresses

• Soft blouses

• Wrap dresses

• Flowing skirts

• Lightweight summer clothing

If a pattern calls for a fabric with drape, viscose is often a very good option.

Cotton fabrics may be a better choice when a garment needs more structure, such as shirts, fitted garments, or projects where a crisp shape is preferred.

Sewing Tips For Viscose Fabrics

Because viscose is soft and fluid, it behaves a little differently from more structured fabrics like cotton.

A few simple tips can make sewing with viscose much easier:

• Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter for clean cutting.

• Take your time when laying the fabric out, as lightweight viscose can shift slightly.

• Use fine pins or clips to avoid marking delicate fabrics.

• A universal or microtex needle usually works well.

Once sewn, viscose garments are often extremely comfortable to wear, which is one of the reasons they remain so popular in dressmaking.

A Quick Note About Fabric Drape

One of the most important things to consider when choosing fabric is drape.

Drape refers to how a fabric hangs and moves.

• Structured fabrics hold their shape.

• Drapey fabrics flow and move.

Viscose fabrics are known for having excellent drape, which is why they’re commonly used for dresses, blouses and other garments designed to move naturally with the body.

Linen & Linen Blends

Linen fabrics are made from flax fibres and are known for their natural texture and breathability.

Some fabrics have a linen look but are actually cotton or polyester blends designed to mimic linen’s appearance.

Typical weight range

Light to medium (130–220gsm)

What linen fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Shirts

• Tunics

• Trousers

• Curtains

• Tablecloths

Helpful things to know before buying

• Linen often has a slightly textured look.

• It tends to soften with washing and wear.

• Pure linen can crease more easily than cotton.

• Linen blends are often softer and easier to sew.

Demin

Denim is a strong cotton fabric woven in a twill structure, which creates the diagonal pattern visible in the weave.

Some denim fabrics are rigid, while others contain elastane for stretch.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy (200–350gsm)

What denim is good for

• Jeans

• Jackets

• Skirts

• Dungarees

• Bags

• Workwear

Helpful things to know before buying

• Raw denim can feel firm at first but softens with washing and wear.

• Stretch denim contains elastane which adds flexibility.

• Heavier denims are more durable but require stronger needles and thread when sewing.

Twill & Drill Fabrics

Twill fabrics are woven with a diagonal weave pattern that makes them strong and durable.

Drill fabrics are a type of twill, often made from cotton and commonly used in workwear.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy (200–300gsm)

What twill and drill fabrics are good for

• Trousers

• Jackets

• Uniforms

• Bags

• Aprons

• Workwear

Helpful things to know before buying

• The diagonal weave makes these fabrics stronger than many plain cotton fabrics.

• They tend to hold their shape well.

• Heavier drills can feel quite structured.

Corduroy & Needlecord

Corduroy is a fabric with raised ridges called wales.

The number of wales per inch determines how fine the ridges are.

• Needlecord – very fine ridges

• Standard corduroy – wider ridges

Typical weight range

Medium to medium-heavy (220–320gsm)

What corduroy is good for

• Dresses

• Skirts

• Trousers

• Jackets

• Children's clothing

Helpful things to know before buying

• Corduroy has a soft textured surface.

• Needlecord is usually softer and lighter than traditional corduroy.

• Corduroy fabrics can feel warm and cosy.

Organza

Organza is a lightweight sheer fabric with a crisp texture.

It is often used when you want a fabric that adds shape or volume without much weight.

Typical weight range

Very lightweight

What organza is good for

• Bridal and occasion garments

• Costume work

• Decorative overlays

• Event decorations

Helpful things to know before buying

• Organza is usually semi-transparent.

• It has a crisp handle rather than a soft drape.

• It is often layered over other fabrics.

Fleece

Fleece is a soft synthetic fabric designed to provide warmth while remaining lightweight.

It has a brushed surface that traps warmth and feels soft against the skin.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy

What fleece is good for

• Hoodies

• Blankets and throws

• Children's clothing

• Loungewear

Helpful things to know before buying

• Fleece is warm but lightweight.

• It doesn’t fray easily.

• It can be slightly bulky to sew on very thick versions.

Jersey

Jersey fabrics are knitted rather than woven, which allows them to stretch naturally.

They are commonly used in clothing designed to move with the body.

Typical weight range

Light to medium

What jersey fabrics are good for

• T-shirts

• Dresses

• Leggings

• Children's clothing

Helpful things to know before buying

• Jersey fabrics stretch and move easily.

• They may require stretch needles when sewing.

• Some jerseys are cotton based while others are synthetic blends.

Canvas

Canvas is a durable woven fabric known for its strength.

It’s commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy

What canvas is good for

• Bags

• Aprons

• Upholstery projects

• Outdoor projects

Helpful things to know before buying

• Canvas is thicker and more structured than most dress fabrics.

• It’s designed for durability.

Jacquard & Brocade

Jacquard fabrics have patterns woven into the fabric rather than printed on top.

Brocade is a decorative type of jacquard fabric often used in furnishing and formal garments.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy

What jacquard fabrics are good for

• Curtains

• Cushions

• Formal clothing

• Costumes

Helpful things to know before buying

• The pattern is woven into the fabric.

• These fabrics often have a slight sheen.

Lace

Lace is a decorative fabric made with open patterns.

It’s commonly used as an overlay or decorative element.

What lace is good for

• Dresses and blouses

• Bridal wear

• Decorative sewing

• Occasion garments

Helpful things to know before buying

• Lace is often layered over other fabrics.

• Some lace fabrics have stretch while others do not.

Net, Mesh & Occasion Fabrics

Net and mesh fabrics have an open structure and are often used for decorative or layered projects.

Some occasion fabrics may include sequins, embroidery or decorative finishes.

What these fabrics are good for

• Costume making

• Evening wear

• Event decorations

• Decorative overlays

Helpful things to know before buying

• Some net fabrics can feel slightly textured or scratchy.

• They are often layered over other fabrics.

Velvet & Velour

Velvet and velour fabrics have a soft raised pile which gives them a smooth, luxurious feel.

Velour usually has more stretch and is slightly more casual.

What these fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Tops

• Loungewear

• Occasion wear

Helpful things to know before buying

• The pile can catch the light differently depending on direction.

• Some velvet fabrics contain stretch.

Crepe

Crepe fabrics have a slightly textured surface and soft drape.

They are often used for garments that need movement and flow.

What crepe fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Blouses

• Skirts

• Occasion garments

Polyester Dress Fabrics

Polyester dress fabrics come in many textures and finishes.

They are popular because they are durable and easy to care for.

What they are good for

• Dresses

• Tops

• Skirts

• Lining fabrics

Stretch Fabrics

Stretch fabrics contain fibres such as elastane that allow the fabric to stretch and recover.

Types of stretch

Two-way stretch

The fabric stretches in one direction.

Four-way stretch

The fabric stretches both horizontally and vertically.

What stretch fabrics are good for

• Sportswear

• Dancewear

• Leggings

• Fitted garments

Helpful things to know before buying

Stretch fabrics vary a lot depending on their fibre content.

Some are:

• Smooth and shiny

• Soft and matte

• Thick and supportive

• Lightweight and flexible

Beginner tip

Stretch fabrics can be slightly harder to sew because they move and stretch under the needle.

Using the correct needle and stitch type helps.

Elastane

Elastane is the fibre responsible for stretch in many fabrics.

Even a small percentage can allow a fabric to stretch and recover.

What elastane fabrics are good for

• Activewear

• Dancewear

• Swimwear

• Fitted garments

Upholstery Fabrics

Upholstery fabrics are heavier fabrics designed for furniture and home furnishings.

What they are good for

• Curtains

• Cushions

• Upholstered furniture

• Bags

Helpful things to know

These fabrics are usually thicker and more durable than dressmaking fabrics.

Fire Retardant Upholstery Fabrics

Fire retardant fabrics are designed to meet safety standards for furniture and furnishings.

They are commonly used in commercial settings.

What they are used for

• Upholstered furniture

• Curtains

• Contract furnishings

This structure will work perfectly with your Shopify dropdown sections.

When you’re back, I can also show you two small improvements that will quietly make this page one of the strongest conversion pages on your whole site (fabric shops almost never do them, but they work extremely well).

What Can I Make With…?

If you’re not sure where to start, here’s a quick feel:

  • Looking for a blouse or light dress?
    → Look at light to medium-weight cottons, dobby, viscose or crepe (around 110–200gsm).

  • Want dungarees, pinafores or sturdy dresses?
    → Try medium to medium-heavy fabrics: needlecord, twill, lighter denims, cotton-linen (around 200–260gsm).

  • Need trousers or jackets?
    → Look for medium-heavy to heavy fabrics: twill, denim, bull denim, canvas (around 230gsm+).

  • Sewing for children?
    → Soft cottons, dobby, needlecord, fleece and lighter denims work beautifully.

  • Making bags or homeware?
    → Heavier cottons, denims, jacquards and upholstery-weight fabrics are your friends.

On each product we suggest a few ideas, but if you’re ever unsure, ask – we’re happy to help you match the fabric to your project.

Need Help Deciding?

Ask Questions & Share Makes – Stitches & Giggles

We also have a small but growing community space called Stitches & Giggles – a friendly forum where you can:

  • Ask questions about fabric choices
  • Get advice on patterns and projects
  • Share what you’ve made with Rich Fabrics

If you’re not sure which fabric weight or type is right for your project, you’re very welcome to post in there and ask – no question is too “basic”.

👉 Stitches & Giggles forum