What are Designer Fabrics?

Designer fabrics are fabrics created by professional textile designers and released as part of a named collection.

Brands such as Dashwood Studio work with artists and illustrators to create unique prints that are often only available for a limited production run.

Why Do Sewists Love Them?

• Unique artwork
• Coordinated collections
• Excellent print quality
• Often harder to find once sold out
• Ideal for quilting, dressmaking and special projects

Calico, Muslin and Loom State Cotton are all natural cotton fabrics that sit slightly outside the standard dressmaking cotton category.

They are often less processed than finished cotton fabrics and are commonly used for pattern testing, crafts, utility sewing and natural-style projects.

While each fabric has its own characteristics, they share many similar uses and are often chosen when a more natural or practical fabric is needed.

Typical weight range

Usually lightweight to heavyweight depending on the specific fabric.

What these fabrics are good for

• Toile and mock-up garments

• Pattern testing

• Craft projects

• Bags

• Utility sewing

• Historical costume projects

• Natural home décor projects

Helpful things to know before buying

• These fabrics often have a more natural appearance than finished cottons.

• Some may contain natural flecks or slight colour variations.

• Loom State Cotton has not been fully finished and can feel firmer when first purchased.

• Muslin is usually soft, lightweight and breathable.

• Calico is often used for practice garments and craft projects.

• Most will soften significantly after washing.

Beginner tip

Always pre-wash Calico, Muslin and Loom State Cotton before sewing, as they may shrink more than fully finished cotton fabrics.

Corduroy is a fabric with raised ridges called wales.

The number of wales per inch determines how fine the ridges are.

• Needlecord – very fine ridges

• Standard corduroy – wider ridges

Typical weight range

Medium to medium-heavy (220–320gsm)

What corduroy is good for

• Dresses

• Skirts

• Trousers

• Jackets

• Children's clothing

Helpful things to know before buying

• Corduroy has a soft textured surface.

• Needlecord is usually softer and lighter than traditional corduroy.

• Corduroy fabrics can feel warm and cosy.

Cotton is one of the world's most popular natural fibres, loved for its softness, breathability and versatility. It is comfortable to wear, easy to sew and suitable for everything from lightweight summer clothing to heavy-duty workwear and home furnishings.

One of the biggest misconceptions about cotton is that all cotton fabrics are the same. In reality, cotton is the fibre, not the fabric type. The way the cotton is woven or knitted creates very different fabrics with different weights, textures and uses.

For example, lightweight Madras cotton is perfect for summer shirts, cotton poplin is ideal for dressmaking, cotton jersey is soft and stretchy for T-shirts, while cotton drill, canvas and denim are much heavier and designed for durable garments and furnishings.

Typical Weight Range

Cotton fabrics are available in an enormous range of weights, typically from 80gsm to over 450gsm, depending on the fabric construction.

Some common examples include:

• Madras Cotton – approximately 80–120gsm
• Cotton Poplin – approximately 100–140gsm
• Quilting Cotton – approximately 120–150gsm
• Cotton Jersey – approximately 160–220gsm
• Cotton Twill – approximately 180–300gsm
• Cotton Drill – approximately 250–350gsm
• Cotton Canvas – approximately 250–450gsm
• Denim – approximately 250–450gsm

Always check the GSM shown on each product listing, as this gives the best indication of the fabric's weight, feel and intended use.

Common Uses

Depending on the type of cotton fabric, it may be suitable for:

• Dresses
• Shirts
• Blouses
• Skirts
• Trousers
• Shorts
• Children's clothing
• Quilting
• Patchwork
• Bags
• Aprons
• Cushion covers
• Curtains
• Home décor
• Upholstery projects
• Craft sewing

Sewing Tips

Cotton is generally one of the easiest fabrics to sew, making it an excellent choice for beginners. Most cotton fabrics wash well, press easily and are stable under the sewing machine.

We recommend pre-washing cotton fabrics before sewing, as many varieties may shrink slightly during their first wash.

Helpful things to know before buying

• Cotton is breathable and comfortable to wear.

• Most cotton fabrics are easy to cut and sew.

• Some cotton fabrics may shrink slightly when washed, so pre-washing is often recommended.

• Lighter cottons drape well, while heavier cottons hold more structure.

• Cotton Lawn is lighter and softer than standard Cotton Poplin and is especially popular for dressmaking.

• Giza Cotton is a premium Egyptian cotton known for its exceptional softness, smoothness and quality.

Beginner tip

Cotton fabrics are usually one of the easiest fabrics to sew, which makes them ideal if you're learning.

Cotton Canvas and Half Panama are medium to heavyweight cotton fabrics commonly used for furnishing, craft and home décor sewing projects.

They are thicker and more structured than lightweight dressmaking cottons such as Poplin and Lawn, making them ideal when durability, shape and strength are important.

Half Panama is usually slightly softer, while Cotton Canvas often feels firmer and more structured, but both fabrics sit within the same general category and are suitable for many of the same projects.

Typical weight range

Usually medium to heavyweight.

What these fabrics are good for

• Cushions

• Curtains

• Bags and tote bags

• Table runners

• Aprons

• Lampshades

• Craft projects

• Home décor sewing

Helpful things to know before buying

• These fabrics hold their shape better than lightweight cottons.

• They are stronger and more durable than standard dressmaking fabrics.

• Most domestic sewing machines can handle them comfortably.

• Often used for printed furnishing fabrics and decorative cottons.

• They offer a good balance between lightweight cotton fabrics and heavyweight upholstery fabrics.

Beginner tip

If standard cotton poplin feels too lightweight for your project, Cotton Canvas or Half Panama is often the perfect next step up.

Cotton Jersey is a knitted cotton fabric that naturally stretches and moves with the body.

Unlike woven cotton fabrics such as Poplin, Lawn and Dobby, Cotton Jersey has built-in stretch, making it one of the most popular fabrics for comfortable everyday clothing.

Many Cotton Jersey fabrics contain a small amount of elastane to improve stretch and recovery.

Typical weight range

Usually lightweight to medium weight (around 180–250gsm).

What cotton jersey is good for

• T-shirts

• Dresses

• Leggings

• Children's clothing

• Baby clothing

• Pyjamas

• Loungewear

• Tops

Helpful things to know before buying

• Cotton Jersey stretches, unlike most woven cotton fabrics.

• Soft and comfortable to wear.

• Breathable and suitable for everyday clothing.

• Often contains a small amount of elastane for extra stretch.

• Drapes more softly than woven cotton fabrics.

Beginner tip

Cotton Jersey can be slightly trickier to sew than woven cotton because it stretches while sewing, but with the correct needle and a little practice it becomes much easier to work with.

Crepe fabrics have a slightly textured surface and soft drape.

They are often used for garments that need movement and flow.

What crepe fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Blouses

• Skirts

• Occasion garments

Curtain lining is designed to sit behind your main curtain fabric to improve drape, privacy and the overall finish of curtains and blinds.

Some linings also help reduce sunlight and protect decorative fabrics from fading.

Typical curtain linings we sell

• Polycotton lining

• Lightweight curtain lining

What curtain lining is good for

• Curtains

• Roman blinds

• Soft furnishings

• Decorative backing projects

Helpful things to know before buying

• Curtain lining helps curtains hang more professionally.

• It can improve privacy and light filtering.

• Lighter linings keep curtains softer and more fluid.

• Heavier linings add more structure and insulation.

Beginner tip

A simple lining can completely change how finished curtains look and hang.

Denim is a strong cotton fabric woven in a twill structure, which creates the diagonal pattern visible in the weave.

Some denim fabrics are rigid, while others contain elastane for stretch.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy (200–350gsm)

What denim is good for

• Jeans

• Jackets

• Skirts

• Dungarees

• Bags

• Workwear

Helpful things to know before buying

• Raw denim can feel firm at first but softens with washing and wear.

• Stretch denim contains elastane which adds flexibility.

• Heavier denims are more durable but require stronger needles and thread when sewing.

Double gauze is a soft, breathable fabric made from two very fine layers of cotton that are lightly tacked together.

It has a slightly crinkled, airy texture and a beautifully soft feel, which makes it incredibly comfortable to wear — especially in warmer weather.

Unlike standard cottons, it isn’t completely flat or crisp. Instead, it has a gentle texture and a relaxed, natural look.

Typical Weight Range:

120–150gsm – Lightweight

From our weight guide:

Lightweight fabrics are soft, breathable and ideal for comfortable, easy-to-wear garments.

What is it good for?

• Dresses

• Blouses

• Baby clothes

• Summer wear

• Loungewear

• Scarves

• Light layering pieces

Helpful Things to Know Before Buying:

• Double gauze has a soft crinkled texture — this is part of its look, not a flaw.

• It is made from two layers, but still remains lightweight and breathable.

• It doesn’t have the structure of poplin, so it won’t hold sharp shapes.

• It can feel slightly delicate compared to tighter woven fabrics.

• It may shift a little when cutting due to its softness.

Beginner Tip:

Use plenty of pins or clips when cutting and sewing, and take your time. A fresh needle and a slightly longer stitch length can really help keep everything neat and prevent puckering.

Elastane is the fibre responsible for stretch in many fabrics.

Even a small percentage can allow a fabric to stretch and recover.

What elastane fabrics are good for

• Activewear

• Dancewear

• Swimwear

• Fitted garments

Fleece is a soft synthetic fabric designed to provide warmth while remaining lightweight.

It has a brushed surface that traps warmth and feels soft against the skin.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy

What fleece is good for

• Hoodies

• Blankets and throws

• Children's clothing

• Loungewear

Helpful things to know before buying

• Fleece is warm but lightweight.

• It doesn’t fray easily.

• It can be slightly bulky to sew on very thick versions.

Hessian (sometimes called burlap) is a strong natural fabric made from jute fibres.

It has a rustic woven texture and a more open weave than most cotton fabrics, giving it that classic natural “country” look often used in crafts and displays.

Typical weight range

Usually medium to heavy weight depending on weave.

What hessian is good for

• Rustic décor

• Wedding decorations

• Table runners

• Notice boards

• Garden projects

• Craft projects

• Upholstery backing

Helpful things to know before buying

• Hessian sheds fibres naturally — this is normal.

• It has very little drape and lots of structure.

• The weave is more open and textured than cotton fabrics.

• It’s durable but not soft against skin.

Beginner tip

Hessian is best treated as a utility or décor fabric rather than a dressmaking fabric.

Jacquard fabrics have patterns woven into the fabric rather than printed on top.

Brocade is a decorative type of jacquard fabric often used in furnishing and formal garments.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy

What jacquard fabrics are good for

• Curtains

• Cushions

• Formal clothing

• Costumes

Helpful things to know before buying

• The pattern is woven into the fabric.

• These fabrics often have a slight sheen.

Jersey fabrics are knitted rather than woven, which allows them to stretch naturally.

They are commonly used in clothing designed to move with the body.

Typical weight range

Light to medium

What jersey fabrics are good for

• T-shirts

• Dresses

• Leggings

• Children's clothing

Helpful things to know before buying

• Jersey fabrics stretch and move easily.

• They may require stretch needles when sewing.

• Some jerseys are cotton based while others are synthetic blends.

Lace is a decorative fabric made with open patterns.

It’s commonly used as an overlay or decorative element.

What lace is good for

• Dresses and blouses

• Bridal wear

• Decorative sewing

• Occasion garments

Helpful things to know before buying

• Lace is often layered over other fabrics.

• Some lace fabrics have stretch while others do not.

Linen fabrics are made from flax fibres and are known for their natural texture and breathability.

Some fabrics have a linen look but are actually cotton or polyester blends designed to mimic linen’s appearance.

Typical weight range

Light to medium (130–220gsm)

What linen fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Shirts

• Tunics

• Trousers

• Curtains

• Tablecloths

Helpful things to know before buying

• Linen often has a slightly textured look.

• It tends to soften with washing and wear.

• Pure linen can crease more easily than cotton.

• Linen blends are often softer and easier to sew.

Metallic fabrics are designed to reflect light and create a shiny, eye-catching finish. They can range from subtle shimmer fabrics through to highly reflective holographic and mirror-style materials.

Some metallic fabrics have a soft sheen woven into the fabric, while others have a much bolder foil or holographic finish that changes appearance depending on the lighting and movement.

These fabrics are especially popular for costumes, festival wear, dancewear, event décor and statement sewing projects where you want impact and shine.

Typical Weight Range

Metallic fabrics can vary hugely in weight and structure depending on how they are made.

Lightweight metallic fabrics are often used for costumes and draped garments, while heavier metallics may be more structured and decorative.

What Metallic Fabrics Are Good For

• Costumes

• Festival wear

• Dancewear

• Stage outfits

• Party décor

• Table runners

• Event backdrops

• Display projects

• Accessories

• Creative craft projects

What Metallic Fabrics Feel Like

Metallic fabrics can feel very different depending on the finish, but they are often:

• Smooth or slightly crisp

• Reflective and shiny

• Structured rather than soft

• Lightweight to medium weight

Some metallic fabrics feel soft and flexible, while others can feel more papery or firm because of the foil or reflective coating.

Helpful Things To Know Before Buying

• Metallic finishes can look very different under natural light, indoor light and stage lighting.

• Some metallic fabrics are more structured and less breathable than natural fibres.

• Highly reflective fabrics can show needle marks more easily, so clips are sometimes better than pins.

• Sharp scissors or rotary cutters often give cleaner edges when cutting metallic fabrics.

Beginner Tip

If you’re new to metallic fabrics, start with a lightweight flexible metallic rather than very stiff foil fabrics, as they are usually easier to sew and handle.

A Quick Note About Holographic Fabrics

Holographic fabrics are a type of metallic fabric that reflect multiple colours depending on the angle and lighting.

These fabrics are especially popular for festival wear, costumes and performance outfits because they create dramatic colour shifts and shine when moving under lights.

Net and mesh fabrics have an open structure and are often used for decorative or layered projects.

Some occasion fabrics may include sequins, embroidery or decorative finishes.

What these fabrics are good for

• Costume making

• Evening wear

• Event decorations

• Decorative overlays

Helpful things to know before buying

• Some net fabrics can feel slightly textured or scratchy.

• They are often layered over other fabrics.

Organza is a lightweight sheer fabric with a crisp texture.

It is often used when you want a fabric that adds shape or volume without much weight.

Typical weight range

Very lightweight

What organza is good for

• Bridal and occasion garments

• Costume work

• Decorative overlays

• Event decorations

Helpful things to know before buying

• Organza is usually semi-transparent.

• It has a crisp handle rather than a soft drape.

• It is often layered over other fabrics.

Polycotton is a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. It combines the softness and breathability of cotton with the durability and wrinkle-resistance of polyester.

Because of this blend, polycotton fabrics are often very practical and easy to care for.

Typical weight range

Lightweight (around 90–130gsm)

What polycotton is good for

• Crafts and quilting

• Children's clothing

• Cushion covers

• Lightweight dresses and shirts

• Bags and accessories

Helpful things to know before buying

• Polycotton usually holds its shape well.

• It tends to crease less than pure cotton.

• It’s often slightly firmer than very soft cotton fabrics.

• It’s generally very easy to sew.

Beginner tip

Polycotton is popular for beginners because it’s stable and predictable when sewing.

Polyester dress fabrics come in many textures and finishes.

They are popular because they are durable and easy to care for.

What they are good for

• Dresses

• Tops

• Skirts

• Lining fabrics

Polyester Suede is a woven fabric designed to mimic the appearance and feel of real suede.

Unlike genuine suede, it is durable, easy to care for and suitable for a wide range of sewing and upholstery projects.

Common Uses

• Jackets
• Waistcoats
• Cushion covers
• Bags
• Home décor
• Craft projects
• Costume making
• Soft furnishings

What Does It Feel Like?

Soft with a lightly brushed surface.

It has a suede-like feel without the weight, cost or maintenance requirements of real suede.

Is It Durable?

Yes. Polyester Suede is generally hard-wearing and suitable for projects that need to withstand regular use.

Polyviscose is a woven fabric made by blending polyester and viscose, combining the best qualities of both fibres. Polyester adds strength, durability and crease resistance, while viscose gives the fabric a softer handle and a beautiful flowing drape.

Polyviscose is popular for dressmaking because it looks smart, feels comfortable to wear and is much easier to care for than many natural fibres. It offers a polished appearance without feeling heavy, making it suitable for everyday clothing as well as more tailored garments.

Typical Weight Range

Polyviscose fabrics are commonly available between 140gsm and 250gsm, depending on their intended use.

Lightweight polyviscose (around 140–170gsm) is ideal for blouses and shirts, while mediumweights (170–220gsm) are perfect for dresses, skirts and trousers. Heavier qualities can be used for jackets, uniforms and suiting.

Common Uses

• Dresses • Skirts • Trousers • Shirts • Blouses • Pinafore dresses • Culottes • Tunics • Waistcoats • Lightweight jackets • School uniforms • Suiting • Accessories

Helpful Things To Know Before Buying

• Softer and more fluid than pure polyester. • Less prone to creasing than many natural fibres. • Comfortable to wear thanks to the viscose content. • Stable woven fabric with no stretch unless elastane has been added. • Easy to sew and presses well. • Suitable for clothing throughout the year.

Beginner's Tip

Polyviscose is a fantastic fabric for beginners who want to make garments with a lovely drape without tackling slippery fabrics like satin or delicate fabrics such as silk.

A universal sewing needle and good quality polyester thread are usually all you need. Pre-washing before cutting is recommended, and pressing seams as you sew will give your finished garment a beautifully professional look.

Rayon is a soft, breathable fabric made from natural plant fibres that have been processed into a smooth textile.

It is loved for its beautiful drape and ability to create flowing garments.

Rayon is often chosen when people want the softness and breathability of natural fibres combined with a more fluid, elegant drape.

Common Uses

• Dresses
• Skirts
• Blouses
• Shirts
• Kimonos
• Wide-leg trousers
• Jumpsuits
• Lightweight summer clothing

What Does It Feel Like?

Soft, cool and fluid.

Rayon drapes beautifully and moves naturally when worn.

Is It Beginner Friendly?

Rayon can be a little slippery to cut and sew compared to cotton, but the finished results are often worth the extra effort.

Stretch fabrics contain fibres such as elastane that allow the fabric to stretch and recover.

Types of stretch

Two-way stretch

The fabric stretches in one direction.

Four-way stretch

The fabric stretches both horizontally and vertically.

What stretch fabrics are good for

• Sportswear

• Dancewear

• Leggings

• Fitted garments

Helpful things to know before buying

Stretch fabrics vary a lot depending on their fibre content.

Some are:

• Smooth and shiny

• Soft and matte

• Thick and supportive

• Lightweight and flexible

Beginner tip

Stretch fabrics can be slightly harder to sew because they move and stretch under the needle.

Using the correct needle and stitch type helps.

Tapestry fabric is a woven fabric (not printed) where the design is created through coloured threads.

This gives it a thicker, textured feel and a more durable, decorative finish compared to standard fabrics.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavyweight (around 200–400gsm).

What it’s good for

• Upholstery projects

• Cushions and soft furnishings

• Bags and accessories

• Wall hangings

• Statement jackets or structured garments

Helpful things to know before buying

• It’s thicker and less flexible than standard cotton fabrics

• Patterns are woven in, so they won’t fade like prints

• Can be harder to sew — you may need a stronger needle

• Often has little to no stretch

Beginner tip

Use a stronger needle (like a denim or universal 90/14) and go slowly — tapestry is thicker and needs a bit more control when sewing.

Twill fabrics are woven with a diagonal weave pattern that makes them strong and durable.

Drill fabrics are a type of twill, often made from cotton and commonly used in workwear.

Typical weight range

Medium to heavy (200–300gsm)

What twill and drill fabrics are good for

• Trousers

• Jackets

• Uniforms

• Bags

• Aprons

• Workwear

Helpful things to know before buying

• The diagonal weave makes these fabrics stronger than many plain cotton fabrics.

• They tend to hold their shape well.

• Heavier drills can feel quite structured.

Upholstery fabrics are heavier fabrics designed for furniture and home furnishings.

What they are good for

• Curtains

• Cushions

• Upholstered furniture

• Bags

Helpful things to know

These fabrics are usually thicker and more durable than dressmaking fabrics.

Fire retardant fabrics are designed to meet safety standards for furniture and furnishings.

They are commonly used in commercial settings.

What they are used for

• Upholstered furniture

• Curtains

• Contract furnishings

Velvet and velour fabrics have a soft raised pile which gives them a smooth, luxurious feel.

Velour usually has more stretch and is slightly more casual.

What these fabrics are good for

• Dresses

• Tops

• Loungewear

• Occasion wear

Helpful things to know before buying

• The pile can catch the light differently depending on direction.

• Some velvet fabrics contain stretch.

Viscose is a lightweight dress fabric known for its soft feel and beautiful drape. It’s made from plant cellulose (usually wood pulp) that has been processed into fibres and spun into fabric.

Many people describe viscose as feeling somewhere between cotton and silk — soft, breathable and flowing.

Because viscose moves beautifully, it’s very popular for dressmaking and lightweight clothing.

Typical Weight Range

Most viscose dress fabrics fall into the lightweight category (around 110–150gsm), although heavier versions do exist.

What Viscose Is Good For

• Dresses

• Blouses

• Skirts

• Lightweight trousers

• Summer clothing

• Floaty tops

Viscose works best for garments designed to drape and move naturally.

What Viscose Feels Like

Viscose fabrics are usually:

• Soft and smooth

• Lightweight and breathable

• Drapey and flowing

• Comfortable against the skin

Compared to cotton, viscose usually has much more movement and less structure.

Helpful Things To Know Before Buying

• Viscose drapes beautifully but can move around more when cutting and sewing.

• Lightweight viscose is usually better for flowing garments than structured garments.

• Gentle washing is usually recommended, as viscose can shrink slightly if washed too hot.

Beginner Tip

Viscose isn’t difficult to sew, but because it’s softer and more fluid than cotton it can take a little more care when cutting and handling.

Sharp scissors and taking your time usually makes sewing viscose much easier.

Viscose vs Cotton

Cotton fabrics are usually more structured and stable, while viscose fabrics are softer, drapier and more fluid.

Because of this, the same sewing pattern can look completely different depending on whether it’s made in cotton or viscose.

• Cotton = more structure

• Viscose = more movement and drape

Both are breathable and comfortable to wear — it just depends on the final look you want.

Wadding is a soft padding layer used inside quilts, cushions, bags and upholstery projects to add loft, softness and insulation.

Different weights of wadding create different levels of thickness and warmth.

Common waddings we sell

• Polyester wadding

• Fire resistant wadding

What wadding is good for

• Quilting

• Upholstery

• Cushion padding

• Bag making

• Soft furnishings

• Craft projects

Helpful things to know before buying

• Higher oz = thicker wadding.

• Polyester wadding holds loft well and dries quickly.

• Thicker waddings can become harder to sew through on domestic machines.

• Some waddings are fire resistant for furnishing use.

Beginner tip

4oz wadding is often a great starting point because it adds softness without becoming too bulky.